Stein HOFF: News from the route

STEIN HOFF: news from the route

Tuesday, 10th. September day 32
One month since departure. New course.

12 GMT pos: N2255 W2431. Light breeze from ENE, moderate sea, 1-2 metre waves, ј cloudy, a little blue heaven can be seen through long, low cumulus clouds. Temp 26/24. 39 n.miles past 24 hours.

The wind is a little more easterly, and the temperature reminds me more and more of the trade-wind belt. I have therefore changed my course to the next way-point, which is just north of the border between Surinam and French Guyana, 1952 n.miles at 245 degrees. After that there is just 218 miles left at 249 degrees. That is a total of 2170 n.miles from here to Georgetown. The distance back to Lisbon in a straight line is 1229 miles, that means I am over 1/3 of the way. Good to have another mile-stone behind me. If I can keep an average of 40 n.miles per day, I will arrive in 55 days, then the trip will have taken 86 days. But a few days of contrary winds can soon spoil that reckoning!

Another trade-wind phenomenon was a large school of well-grown flying-fish which took off from near the port bow. I heard swish,swish and when I looked over my shoulder saw 20-30 fish gliding in elegant formation. I have often tried to catch this spectacular phenomenon on film, but never managed. I didn’t see any big fish, so it must have been Star Atlantic II which frightened then into the air. There were three small fish on the deck this morning. I let a larger one out through the scuppers last night. It was dark and I had my head-light on, which confuses and attracts them.

Last night was the first beautiful sun-set for some days, and soon afterwards, a sickle-shaped moon and Venus took over. The Northern Star is still easy to see, even though it is 15 degrees lower than during the first nights near Lisbon. When I went to bed, I took a Celebra prophylactically, and was in the bunk for 10 hours. I think that helped, less sore today. It is still difficult to get the speed over 3 knots, but I feel my energy is back and I only needed half-an-hour stretch after lunch. At 2-3 in the afternoon the sun is at its hottest and it is good to hide away a bit anyway!

The past couple of days I have heard "Kim" by Rudyard Kipling, a book I oddly enough haven’t read as a boy – and the Norwegian author Andre Bjerke’s psychological thriller "The Lake of the Dead". Rather long-winded but I liked it. I also keep listening to music, today included Jan Johansen’s piano-jazz version of "The folk-song from Utmyra", and on CD Rod Stewart’s "I am sailing", an old favourite. Listened to some newer Scottish music, "roll the seas" was particularly suitable for me! So I can sit here in the middle of the Atlantic and enjoy books and music, or when I want to, quietness and the fantastic nature!

To answer Jessa and Alex in Seattle, I will try to describe why I really want to do this. The brief answer is adventure and challenge. In this is a large element of love for the wild and untamed oceans where there are animals that people cannot direct and control. But to experience this you have to have patience. Days can go by between each time I see a sword-fish or a whale, for instance. But there is something to discover every day. Here I can see the sun, moon and planets in quite a different way form on land. Then there is the challenge of having one’s own expedition. As a boy I loved travel stories, and reading about the great discoverers, especially those at sea. And Islands in the tropics seemed particularly exciting to visit. I don’t know how many times I read Robinson Crusoe ! Together with my family, I have sailed around the World. Getting to new places in one’s own boat is fantastic fun. Then there is the challenge of doing something that maybe no-one else has done. Also, if one is comfortable all the time it is easy not to appreciate it, so some "artificial" challenges make me enjoy life more. I could write a lot more about these subjects! Just ask if I have forgotten anything important.

For the moment I will wish Jessa and Alex a good night. Hope you and most others will sleep well, although many will be thinking about the sad anniversary tomorrow.

On course for South America.

Stein.

Monday, 9th. September day 31 In the Tropics!

12 GMT pos: N2317 W2353. Fresh breeze from NE, moderate sea, 2-3 metre waves, 3/8 cloud, More blue sky to be seen, better visibility than for a long time. Temp 26/23. 262 n.miles to way-point 3, 39 n.miles past 24 hours.

During the night I rowed over the Tropic of Cancer and am officially in the tropics! That is the area of the earth where the sun is in the zenith at least once a year. Here at N2330 it was vertically over on the 21st. June, before it began its 6 month wander to the Tropic of Capricorn at S2330. I have now also passed the place where my daughter Elisabeth capsized on 19th. February, 1999. She had been on the way from Tenerife for 10 days, when bad weather knocked the boat upside-down and it didn’t right itself. She managed to get out and was thankfully rescued. The boat drifted alone across the Atlantic and was found 11 months later on a sand bank in the Turks and Caicos Islands – and there she still is.

I wasn’t in great form yesterday. It took more effort to row and get the daily jobs done. But I was determined to scrub the hull, make fresh-water and bake bread. Everything went to plan, but there was less time and energy to row than usual. I awoke at 5 a.m., sweaty, stiff and sore with pain in my back, my right hip, my neck and my hands. It was 23 degrees in the cabin, really quite comfortable. I took a Celebra, drank some water, read a bit and gradually felt better. But I haven’t had much more energy today, despite more sun and a little blue colour in the water, instead of just grey. Usually I have no trouble keeping a speed of 3 knots, that is a nautical mile (1852 metres) every 20 minutes. Today it took 25 minutes. I tell myself that it is nothing to worry about, but I suspect that it may be a little protest from my body about this particular life-style!

This morning there were 4 flying-fish on deck. I threw them out one at a time to see if any bigger fish were around, but no luck. But an hour later I saw an interesting sight. As a larger wave passed me, I saw a big tail-fin sticking out about 20-30 cms above the water! It cut through the water like a sword. This happened several times, the sun was against me and it was difficult to see who owned the tail, but sometimes a smaller back-fin appeared, and I could just make out a 2 metre long torpedo-shaped fish. I stopped rowing and got the camera, but he swam away. This type of fin is often mistaken for a shark, but it was a sword-fish, otherwise known as a sail-.fish or a marlin. They can become very big. We have had a similar one on the line occasionally, but a couple of jerks and both fish and fishing line are gone. During the ARR 97 race, Arvid and I saw an even bigger one right beside the boat. But this trip is not over yet!

Otherwise I must thank for more greetings in the guest-book.!That was nice that you toasted for me at the confirmation in Oslo yesterday. Sorry I couldn’t be there. And to Bryan and kids Jessa and Alex in Seattle, I’ll write an answer tomorrow. They want an explanation as to why I am doing this! Anyway I an glad you like my stories – now that is one reason for being here!.

The pictures today are of a flying-fish with a pretty wing – like a butterfly, and Star 11 showing my navigation equipment. Maybe not so easy to see the details, but from left to right is the PC (ASUS L3800), EPIRB (TRON 45S – the one that saved Elisabeth), the pilot chart for the Atlantic and a SONY radio (World Band Receiver). In the middle from left is the VHF radio (ICOM IC-M3EURO), video-camera (SONY PC 100E), thermometer/anemometer/barometer (SILVA Alba Windwatch), torch, head-lamp (both diode type, light and long life) In the front from left are the instructions for the camera taking the picture (Nikon COOLPIC 5000), a little compass for checking the course during the night and my log (diary).

Best wishes from Stein.

Sunday, 8th. September day 30
The hull gets another scrub

12 GMT pos: N2345 W2323. Moderate to fresh breeze from NE, moderate sea, about 2 m waves, still some cross-waves. 3/8 cloud, poor visibility probably due to the sand/dust and dampness. Temp 27/25. 301 n.miles to way-point 3, 47 n.miles past 24 hours.
As I write this at 1830 GMT, I am sitting with newly-washed hair and a stinging rear-end. I have been in the sea and scrubbed the hull. There were many small jelly-fish in the water. As long as they touched my legs, they only stung a little bit, but after washing my hair, getting back up into the boat, I must have touched one with my bottom. Here the skin is thinner and more sensitive! That was nearly an hour ago, since when I have eaten and tidied up, and now it is getting better.

I was alarmed at all the growth which had developed under the boat, this really cuts down speed. I had to work hard to scrub it off. Some were 2 cms long, these leave a calcium spot which I can’t get rid of. The biggest ones were round the lead-plates and the bolts which hold them in place. I had put the boat broadside to the waves, but the boat’s movements were sometimes quite violent. Apart from the rudder at the stern, there are no sharp object to hit me, but even so this was the worst scrubbing job I have had. This is the nearest I have been to being sea-sick! Even so, I am glad I didn’t put it off any more, the ideal swimming conditions may not come for a while. The sea here is more nutritious, and the small animals grow at an alarming rate. While the boat was in this position, I made another 5-6 litres of fresh water. After yesterdays water production and clothes washing, it was indeed a feeling of luxury to put on clean, dry clothes this morning for my first row. And now the rower is clean!

A plump. little flying-fish on deck today, a little bigger than yesterday. When I threw it out, a bigger fish came at full speed from under the boat and snapped him up. I think it was a dorado. But I saw no other fish while I was scrubbing. However in the air I see increasing numbers of fish in flight.

Otherwise this is a day with sadness as I think of my brother, Per. On this date in 1989, he was on his way by plane from Oslo to Hamburg. He was a newly appointed director in the shipping firm, Wilhelmsen Lines. Together with 49 others, he was on his way to take over a new ship and celebrate the firm’s good results. The plane crashed into the Skagerak, all 50 and the crew of 5 were killed, the Partnair disaster. Per and the plane were the same age – 36 years. A special greeting today to his children, Dorthe in England and Axel in Sandefjord – and to everyone else who was fond of Per. Greetings, Stein.

Saturday, 7th.September. day 29
Four weeks gone. Sand from Sahara.
12 GMT pos: N2424 W2254 Mod breeze from NE, moderate sea, ¼ cloud, Temp 25/23. 46n.miles past 24 hours.
A calm night, didn’t need to adjust the course at all, although have gone a little more south than the ideal course. Less rolling this way, that is with the wind from port-side.
I heard that it rained twice during the night, but not enough to bother putting up the rain-collector. I had the alarm on for 7 o’clock, about an hour and a quarter before sun-rise. It was still black as night and wet everywhere. I felt stiff and sore several places, and after creeping half-way out, crept right back into my cosy nest – like a hermit crab!
I was finally at the oars at half past eight as the sun broke through the clouds and Grapelli’s smooth violin music drowned the sound of the waves. All over the boat, apart from where waves had washed over, was red-brown dust. The poor visibility for the past few days was not due to damp air, but to particles of dust and sand from the Sahara in the air. I suppose the strong wind has brought the particles from Morocco and Western Sahara. This dust is sometimes registered in Barados, even occasionally with live insects!
Last night was quite enjoyable. Strong phosphorescence lit up the top of the waves and sparkled round the oars and I listened to “Tess of the D’Urbervilles”, a good long tale by Thomas Hardy.
While Iate breakast I had the water-maker going again. Not without problems, as the rolling still lets some air in. But I had adjusted the weight on deck to get port-side towards the waves. I had enough to wash clothes with the first 5 litres, and I got 5 more at lunch-time.
Otherwise I have celebrated my mother-in-law’s birthday with a song and a tune on the recorder. Isobel is 89 today! She moved fro Glasgow to Canada a few years ago to live with her son, Jim, and if the day includes a cross-word, bridge and tennis on the television, it will be a successful birhday! I hope to be in Canada in a year to celebrate her 90thbirthday. .Happy Birthday Isobel!
If I hadn’t been out here now I would have been in Praha , at the yearly veteran world championships in rowing. This is where the old competetive rowers relive old glory (real and imagined) and meet old friends. Good luck, especially Scots and Norwegians!
A flying-fish of almost edible dimensions landed on deck this morning. A little more rubbish in the sea, unfortunately. I will be in the tropics in a coupleof days, and there should soon be more life in the sea. Also want calmer sea to scrub the bottom again and get more fresh-water. At the moment I have30 litres left of my reserves, plus the few lites I have made now – a week’s miminum rations.
Diana is in Sandefjord today, tomorrow she and my mother are going to a confirmation in Oslo. Good luck, Kristina!
Continued good week-end from Stein.

Friday, 6^th. September day 28
12 GMT pos: N2501 W2224. Fresh breeze from NE, cloudy with an occasional glimpse of the sun. . Still irregular, rough sea, about 3m waves. Damp. Temp 24/23. 394 n.miles to way-point 3. 44 n.miles past 24 hours.
As i write this at 1815 GMT, the conditions and my mood are better, it is easier to row and altogether easier to exist in this nut-shell of a boat. But during the night it was again very uncomfortable to lie in my bunk, and impossible to keep a steady course. I had to get up and correct it several times. But the waves didn’t seem so threatening as the day before, just not very co-operative! At quarter past one, there was a huge splash over the stern, and another little shower came through the dorado ventilator. I could hardly believe it! I had turned the opening forwards, but the boat had probably been pushed sideways by a wave, and some water sneaked its way in. So the ventilator is now closed indefinitely!
Arvid phoned me last night and told me that he had looked at the weather chart for this part of the Atlantic and there is no threatening weather. So that is at least a good comfort! I couldn’t face rowing before breakfast this morning, but took over two hours afterwards, while I listened to the 1000-mile present from Elisabeth and Hugh: "Talking heads" by Alan Bennett, 6 well-known monologues produced by the BBC. Excellent – thanks a lot! But I haven’t managed to find the quarter-way present from Diana yet, mainly because it is difficult to look in the small compartments under the mattress when the boat is acting like a bucking bronco! I’ll maybe try again tonight. Anyway, it is exciting to have a little treasure to hunt for!
After the morning session, I had an hour on my back. Then I ate a large lunch of egg-fried rice with onions and squid, a Maxim chocolate bar and then rowed for three hours as the conditions improved. Now I will have one of Drytech’s freeze-dried chicken curry meals, now an old favourite, 20 minutes lying down, then row as long as I can manage. On the cassette-player is a Thomas Hardy book.
My clothes are getting dirtier and stiffer with salt, the fresh-water reserves are diminishing, and the goose-neck barnacles are getting longer under the boat. So fingers crossed for calmer seas! Anyway, I tell myself that this is voluntary, and that every day cannot be as enjoyable. The main thing is that it is going faster than I had imagined, even these last uncomfortable days.
A good week-end to family and friends and all others following my journey!
Stein.
PS: A 6 cms long flying-fish was on the deck this morning, a few birds seen, otherwise just grey sea and grey sky! SH.

Thursday, 5th. September day 27
12 GMT pos: N2538 W2157. ENE fresh breeze, moderate-rough sea, cloudy, very hazy sun.

Temp 25/23, barometer 1042, 438 n.miles to way-point 3, 42 n.miles past 24 hours in a straight line, but must have rowed much more than that! Still difficult to keep a steady course, lots of movement, very uncomfortable.

As may have been gathered, I was not very pleased with yesterday's conditions, and it was to become worse. I rowed for a couple of hours after sun-set, mostly to stop spray and too much water pouring over the boat. It was cloudy and almost completely dark, and I tried to row as much as possible with the wind. But time and time again I had to use both the rudder and lots of strength to correct the course. It went fairly well. But at 11 p.m. my energy was gone. I had a freeze-dried meal, and tied everything down on deck as well as I could. I had heard that my rowing colleague Emmanuel in the North Atlantic had turned round in a 40 knots wind. I at least had no more than 20-25 knots.

At last I crept inside my little nest, listened to Norwegian news at mid-night, and opened the dorado ventilator to let some air into the cabin. That was a mistake. 15 minutes later there was a crash, then a shower of salt-water over my thighs. It gave me a deja-vue from 1997, when something similar happened during the row to Barbados, but that was through the top-hatch, and was a bucket or two of sea-water, this was probably no more than half a litre, and I was glad to see none had got under the mattress.
But the sheet, the mattress and my night-shorts were wet. I was also a bit startled, were the conditions deteriorating? So it was a long and uncomfortable night with the main hatch barely open. At dawn there were heavy clouds, a little less wind and not quite so many white horses as the day before. I was pleased to see the tropic bird come for another inspection. He flew around for a few minutes, maybe the red-beaked bird liked my red-painted oars?

By 2-3 o'clock in the afternoon, conditions were much better, the sun was peeping through, and the mattress was hanging up to dry. There is fortunately a plastic layer under the outer cover, which is waterproof. I have rubbed it with a cloth rinsed in fresh water. The mattress is in two bits, the upper half didn't get wet. But my energy has been low today and I have had more breaks than usual. A reaction to yesterday, I think.

Today I have listened to the Norwegian humorist Øyvind Thorsen's excellent, banal reflections, yesterday to Monty Python's Flying Circus. The evening before, I listened to Mark Twain's "Adventures of Tom Sawyer". I have read this book several times as a kid, and read it for my children, but it is still good. Like the tropic bird, it made me think of Pitcairn. Mark Twain was born in 1834 when Halley's comet could be seen from Earth. He died in 1910, 76 years later, when it could be seen again. He apparently prophesied this. In 1986, the comet was back again and we were on Pitcairn where we had a good view of the phenomenon. With no buildings or traffic lights in the way, and a background of palms and Pacific ocean, there is no better view of it. My father was born in 1910, but he survived the comet's next visit and lived until 1999!

No ships or planes for several days. A little plastic and rubbish in the sea, but I feel quite alone and far from civilisation! Two flying-fish seen in the air, and one poor soul on deck. I have now done over 1000 nautical miles, and have a packet to open from Elisabeth and Hugh. Diana has reminded me that there is also a quarter-way package from her, so I am off on a present-hunt!

Cheers from Stein.

Wednesday, 4th.September day 26
1220 GMT pos: N2614 W2132 Near gale from NE, very rough and irregular sea., light cloud cover. Temp 25/23, 480 n.miles to way-point 3, 44 n.miles past 24 hours.

This is a day which I will not look back on with much pleasure. It has been
very uncomfortable since 2-3 o'clock in the morning, with heavy rolling,
sudden movements, a lot of water on deck, and several times also in the
cock-pit. When I am sitting at the oars, I can avoid the worst hits and
splashes, but I have to rest a bit also. Several times there has been a
large wave break over the stern above the cabin, and I had to close the
ventilator in the cabin roof after a splash managed to get through it.
Early this morning the heaven was black and a bit frightening, but the
cloud layer is now thinner, and the barometer (if that is anything to
depend on ) doesn't forecast any seriously bad weather. On a day like this
I just have to survive, and plans of baking, shaving and clothes-washing
are all postponed to another day.

Taking photos is also difficult and risky(at least for the camera), but I have been visited several times by a tropic bird, and I just had to get it on film. It is one of the most beautiful sea-birds, quite big, a bit like a large tern. Mostly white, a little grey on its back, black marks in front of its wings and round the eyes, fan-shaped tail with some long feathers, and a strong, blood-red beak. The pictures don't show its beauty, but they are authentic! This bird visit reminded me of when our whole family were in
Pitcairn in 1986. We were lucky to be taken on a week's holiday with half the island's population of about 30 people, to the uninhabited atoll Oeno, a day's journey away on their long-boats. This island is the nesting place for boobies, frigate birds and these tropic birds. As they sits quite unafraid on their nests, the Pitcairn children can creep up and pull out one of the long tail-feathers to put in their hat!

It was so noisy and windy today that I could hardly hear the loudspeakers. I solved that by using the Walkman. Today's book was Sir Alex Ferguson's "Managing my Life". I am of course disappointed that he only mentioned his football-playing Norwegian Ole Gunnar Solskjær once. We are after all talking about the World's best-know Norwegian!

In the 30 minutes it has taken to edit these pictures and write these lines, it has splashed many times onto the deck, and twice into the cock-pit. I must get back to work!

I wish everybody a calm evening!
Stein.

Tuesday, 3rd September day 25 12 GMT pos: N2650 W2102 Temp 25/23 barometer 1043. NE fresh breeze to near gale (F5-F6), rough sea, cloudy. 524 n.miles to way-point 3. 46 n.miles past 24 hours.

I sat and wrote yesterday's report in the dusk, and realised how damp it was when I took in the bed-clothes. They had been hanging out for several hours in the hope of getting properly dry. But the sheet has become so salty and the dew came so fast that it was wetter than ever last night. Seems to dry better inside, at least until I make enough water to wash everything in fresh-water. But I do have an extra pillow-case which I put on yesterday, gave a little feeling of luxury. The sheets however were not
dry until well into the night.

The sea got rougher after sun-set. I kept rowing for about 31/2 hours until after mid-night thanks to "Cities of the Plain", read by Brad Pitt. A sad story about one of the last cow-boys in 1952. He falls in love with a Mexican prostitute. The author is Cormac McCarthy. A tough story. I had to calm my nerves afterwards with Andrea Bocelli's romantic songs. I ate some supper as I tried to adjust the rudder, but it was impossible to hold the boat on a steady course. Those side-waves were back again. Throughout the night we drifted sideways, first one way, then the other. Crash, bang and rolling. The sea looked really unfriendly and angry this morning and I wasn't sure if I could row at all. It went alright though, listening to Alexander Dumas's "The Count of Monte Cristo", and old favourite about beautiful women, injustice, a great treasure and sweet revenge.

Now in the afternoon conditions are better, the sun has cone out and is topping up the batteries, but despite a good lunch and a siesta, my strength isn't there. It is hot and very damp. I am dripping sweat just sitting here in the door-opening and writing. No ships for a couple of days, have heard two planes, otherwise just heaven and sea in endless variation.

I have had a look in the guest-book, and there are lots of greetings since I last looked. Many take me down memory lane...with Angela, I am back at freshers' camp near Loch Lomond in 1964. Atle reminds me of when I was diving doctor in the Navy near Bergen 1974-75, Magnus and Katinka of the time Arvid and I nearly collided with them in the Atlantic during the 1997 rowing regatta. They were sailing to St-Lucia and we were rowing to Barbados. And they are form Kristiansand! Such a coincidence only occurs once in a life-time! Marit og Ola have seen Red Admiral safely back in Oslo. Our old sailing boat has been with her new family on a round trip in the Atlantic. Congratulations to Astrid, Per, Martin and Einar! Patients have sent greetings from Hamresand, Holland and Rio, family from Skien and Trondheim, there are also greetings from my job, and from friends in Denmark, Madeira, Portugal ,Canada, USA and Barbados. What an international following I have - I'll try not to disappoint you!

Greetings from Stein.

Monday, 2nd September day 24
Quarter-way!

12 GMT pos: N2726 W2029 4/8 cloud. Temp 25/22, barometer1042. Mod. breeze from NE, moderate sea, 571 n.miles to way-point 3, 46 n.miles past 24 hours.

This morning I worked out some distances. In a straight line, I was 871 miles from Lisbon and 2483 miles to Georgetown; quarter way and a little more! So tonight I opened a quarter-way package from my mother Eli. There was a variety of goodies, including some biscuits which are good to eat with the cheese I got last week from Arvid and Berit. I am among the privileged who has a mother who cares about me even though I am nearing 60! That none of my nearest family have become sick or needed me for any other reason since I began is a relief and something I am grateful for. This makes it easier to concentrate on this challenge. Not only that, 75 % of the time here I am enjoying myself very much. So far I have not regretted the trip for a second, even when it has been very uncomfortable.

I have just finished the 6 cassettes with Arne Næss's philosophy, and I noticed he also likes the expression " It's not how things are, but how you take them!" I also agree with his views on non-violence and care of the environment. It was good to hear that there is possible progress in the Johannesburg environment conference.

Yesterday ands today I have made 5 litres of water, about what I need daily for food and drink. I have some bed-clothes which could now do with a wash, but I will wait until the sea is calmer and the machine works better. But the waves are a lot more regular than several days ago. This afternoon I turned the rudder to the lee-side, and jumped in to wash and inspect the hull. I had seen the top fin of a fish 5-6 metres behind the boat for a while, probably a dorado. But there were no fish to see in the water, not even my little friend form earlier. I fear the dorado has eaten him.

No flying fish today either, but as I sit with my back to the direction of travel, I suppose I miss many jumps. The sky has been covered with mackerel clouds for most of the day, but now towards evening they are lessening. The conditions look stable - cross fingers!

I have heard more poetry in English, including "The rime of the ancient mariner" by S.T.Coleridge. This fantastic poem is not only a poem, but a novel. I listened to it twice, it lasts 28 minutes. My friend Jim in Melbourne says he has learned it off by heart -I don't believe that until I hear it, Jim! Shall we hear it in Georgetown?

Last night I rowed well into the night, thanks to a fairly calm sea, and the book "Man and Boy" by Tony Parsons. I had read about 1/3 in a paper-back until I discovered I also had a CD. It is a well. written and moving story about a divorce in our modern society, and the boy in the middle.

The pictures show sun-set two evenings ago, the tiny flying-fish form yesterday and my quarter-way lunch with red-wine and freeze-dried Chicken in curry with potato crisps. My mascot Star 11 is showing some of the equipment on the stern. She is leaning on the VHF antenna. The jelly-lady is sunning herself on one of the fixed sun-panels, the back one can be tilted up to get better charging from the evening sun. (At the same time the VHF antenna is pushed down, so there is no shadow on the panel as that reduces the charging).

Back to the left is a dorado ventilator, which can be turned 360 degrees to get wind into the cabin. It can be closed from the inside. On the right is the antenna for the Iridium satellite-telephone and behind is the top of the rudder. Right at the back on the right side is the flag, which I take in when it is blowing hard.

It looks like being a nice evening. I have a good book on the CD player, and I will row a couple of hours after sun-set. Even though the pain in my neck is bothering me a little.

Best wishes, Stein.

Sunday, 1st September day 23
12 GMT pos. N2809 W2005. Moderate to fresh breeze (F4-F5) from NW, moderate sea. Temp 26/23, barometer1028. Hazy sun, almost clear sky. 617 n.miles to way-point 3. 50 n.miles past 24 hours. I have now past west of Hierra, and am soon south of all the Canary Islands!

Calmer weather towards evening, still good speed. A big red sun went down into the sea at 2040 GMT. A large north-going container ship passed me soon after. Rice with onions and sardines, beet-root and feda cheese for dinner. Slept better than for some time. A little compass inside told me that the course was more or less correct. The radar detector peeped a couple of
times, but I saw no more ships. I was back at the oars at 7 a.m. Fine sickle-moon and "new" star formations – powerful Orion with the bull galloping towards the sword. Dawn an encore of sun-set, blood-red sun rising vertically from the sea at 8 a.m. The days are getting shorter. New ship after breakfast. Not too much swell, easy to row. Listened to a BBC poem collection. My old favourite "If" by Rudyard Kipling was there and "Sea-fever" by John Masefield. "I must go down to the sea again, to the lonely sea and the sky", a very suitable poem for me this morning!

Two small flying –fish on deck. I took a photo of one on my finger-tip, so not a big fellow. Shame that it should end it’s life on my deck. If it even had been big enough to eat…Made 5 litres of water after lunch, still so much swell that it is difficult. The water-maker dislikes getting air sucked in with the sea. Lunch was egg-fried rice with salmon fillets, feda cheese and beet-root, then Diana’s fruit-cake and half an hours lie-down. I feel well-rested and in good form today. A little pain in my right neck, and in my back, have to have something to complain about!

So while Isaac Stern is playing Beethoven’s romances beside me, I wish all a continued good Sunday, and as far as possible make the best out of the unavoidable Monday – life is too short not to enjoy Mondays as well. We have to know what to do to give life meaning – I think I know anyway!
Stein

PS
Thanks for new greetings in the guest-book on the occasion of my birthday a
couple of days ago – including my mother-in-law and the rest of the Youngs
in Canada. Best wishes back to you all! S.