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PAVEL REZVOY |
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NEWS FROM THE ROUTE |
| Puerto de Chivirico and Santiago de Cuba |
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Caribbean Sea. From Barbados to Cuba <<< ● >>> Caribbean Sea. From Cuba to Jamaica |
| Time is GMT (local in brackets) |
WEATHER ON ROUTE and there click on 'America' |
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21:23 An insane wind from southwest. |
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22:51 (18:51) “Trenelly” has taken me under a tow. If only you knew what a heroic effort was displayed by our vessels - both together - in desperate desire to break away. I was rowing out fighting a terrible headwind - close to the shore, between piles, straining every nerve to the limit - only to leave! The Brits did manage to leave the port in a brilliant masterly fashion, and then manoeuvred to hook my boat up...
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| June 17th 2004 DOCUMENTS ARE READY , PAVEL IS LEAVING TO-MORROW! | |
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01:00 (21:00 June 16th) At last there came Signora Manolita with a person from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and some Russians as interpreters (Manolita used to be always accompanied by Adela Akosta - a Cuban, who had studied in the Odessa Hydrometheorological Institute in Ukraine). I was informed that hard as they had tried, the departure documents would be ready only the day after to-morrow -on Friday, June 18th - at best. I asked them, if they do understand what it may end up with for me - now, when the hurricane season has already begun; and if I get into a trouble with a bad cyclone and something happens to me - would they be ready to take the blame upon themselves. Of course they are aware and they are concerned, but not everything depends on them in this country of blown up officialdom, where everybody prefers to do nothing more than to do anything, i.e. - to make a decision and be |
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responsible for it. My hosts presented me with a box of water and a box of beer - I appreciated and accepted it with great pleasure. By a lucky chance there appeared two Canadian / Russians from Toronto - quite a lovely mother and her son, - and straight away started to treat me to beer and chicken (the last is considered a top delicacy here). To-morrow they will come and pick me up for a drive around - they have hired a car with a driver. Good service! - the driver is at their disposal, readily awaiting them for as long as they need. Though this place is nothing more than a few historical buildings surrounded by slum, I have a good company to spend a day with. How am I? - Hot, uncomfortable and a little worried... |
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WEATHER FORCAST FOR SANTIAGO DE CUBA. JUNE 17TH 2004 |
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15:00 |
18:00 | 21:00 | 00:00 |
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83°F
80°F|
17:23 (13:23) As always everything is happening simultaneously! The harbour master has come and brought all the documents ready for departure, and at about the same time we have received the following letter from the Consul General of Ukraine in the Republic of Cuba Vladislav Bogorad, explaining the delay in processing Pavel’s departure documents, that was thought to be caused by mere bureaucracy or even conspiracy of “red tape” – SORRY!!! |
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Attention of Mrs. Crutchlow Dear Tatiana, I talked to Manolita. She explained, that according to their jurisdiction, they must provide the boat with a safe exit to open sea with the assistance of a powerboat, which should obtain permission from the Boarder Patrol . Besides, the delay was caused by the fact, that they were processing Pavel’s departure documents free of charge (the actual cost of this service is 100USD), and this had to be approved by appropriate authorities. Manolita said, that according to weather forecast no cyclone is expected in the foreseeable future and they will do everything that depends on them to help Pavel to leave Cuba tomorrow morning With respect Vladislav Bogorad |
| June 16th 2004 | |
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00:38 ( 20:38 June 15th) I had no luck in buying water - it is not on sale here. So I will just take it from marina - though water there has a certain light smack, it's still better than that from watermaker. And there was no way for me to buy any newspapers as well - hard as I tried I just could not find them. |
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I was filming a lot, some unexpected occurrences. But every time I was
taking my camera out, it kept attracting crowds of beggars, who,
understanding that I am a foreigner, asked me for a dollar. When it was
becoming too annoying, I had only to lift my hand up - and the next minute
a motorcycle was driving me away. Motorcycles are serving (mainly men) as
taxi, they are cheaper (20pesos) than buses(50 pesos),- that do not run so
often, - and are at your convenience
at any time. |
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Nights are not pleasant here: they are hot and sticky,
and my boat is stuffed
with mosquitoes. I am anxious about tomorrow's departure - that farewell party can really interfere with the schedule and I will definitely loose my time. And there is one more thing I have to consider - it may well happen that I fail to cross the strait - the strong current and east wind may leave me no chance to get to Jamaica. If this is the case - then be ready for any surprise and meet me somewhere in Honduras! |
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| 11:20 (07:20) Morning came, but nobody has come yet - a deathly hush...But I am packing, nevertheless - "in full fighting trim", though no departure documents have been issued or put in order by now. Talk to you later. I am afraid, that this time it won't be too soon. | |
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16:08 (12:08)
I
filled the canisters with fresh water - for my boat's balance, bought rum
and cigarettes - for my own equilibrium, and, as a matter of fact, we are
cleared for action. But nobody from the authorities, that have to sign the
papers, has ever heaven in sight! I had a call from Consul General of Ukraine in Havana, Vladislav Bogorad - he was genuinely upset; he said that he had already talked to Manolita re this subject. Vladislav called me the day before, that's why he knows that it was my intention to depart as soon as possible, even at dawn, but not in the scorching heat "under the midday sun". Now, to tell the truth, I would leave the first moment my documents are ready - no matter when! And the most ridiculous thing is that there is no problem with the documents - the problem is that I can find nobody to sign the documents for two odd days! And today the chief of the marina was trying his best to find anybody as well - no luck... Well, this is Cuba, mere functionaries, red tape... Meanwhile I am seating in the office of the marina and writing down a song of praise into the Marina's Guest book. In Russian. They say that later on somebody will translate it for them into Spanish. And we are making friends, and I am running out of cigarettes. One of the security officers in marina - Felis, - was taking care of me from the day of my arrival and he is really a nice guy. But of course in my note I do mention the names of all of them. |
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| 20:00 (16:00) No news. Being sick and tired to lounge about the office, I moved to the boat. Here is a shade and cool breeze in the cabin. Next to marina I found a modest eating-house, where I had a decent dinner with beer - for mere pennies, so now I am relaxing and idling away my time. No sense to strain a nerve - even the chief of the marina has disappeared. I don't think they are trying to provoke me - I wouldn't even dream to leave without permission: the very first mile the same clamped coast guard powerboat will stop and tow me back - this time in a different wrapper. So there is not much that I can do - just to seat, to wait and to smile... | |
| June 15th 2004 | |
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12:15 (
08:15)
The night
has passed quietly by. Now I am waiting for officials to prepare papers
for my departure. |
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| Here is some info re bringing GPS and Satphones in Cuba | |
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21:00 (17:00) I have been waiting until late afternoon
for port authorities to turn up , but the customs and immigrations
office remained closed and lifeless, and there is still
nobody in the marina but the security. They
told me that to-morrow signora Manolita and a real delegation are going to
be here to see me off. It's nice of them and...
it’s a pity, 'cause for sure they will not come up in early hours and it
would mean a delay in my departure for at least half a day. |
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| June 14th 2004 | ||
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15:20 (11:20) Yesterday "they" conducted a search again. This time it was another sort of group - with a dog. They rummaged through the boat inside out, but left with nothing, of course. Judging from the presence of the dog they must have searched for drugs. |
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All the litter that I throw away is picked up for inspection. Yesterday I made "the comrades" happy. I put empty packs from "Mountain House" into the garbage bin, and there were those small moisture absorbing desiccant packets inside some of them. |
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So "the comrades" came running with those small packets in their hands, - full of joy, as if they at last did get what they had been awaiting for so long: "What is this??!!!" Though I was not hungry, I decided to open a new pack of "Mountain House", and to show and explain them what's what.. |
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| 22:15 (18:15) I am staying on my boat, which enables me not to go to the restaurant and to cook for myself. I've got the money, so I have cigarettes and in general feel myself quite self-sufficient. | ||
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I am having good visits of British crew from the yacht: a couple with a
boy and an elderly man of my age. They are from Liverpool and as I
mentioned before they have a problem with the engine. The parts that had
been ordered from UK arrived to Havana long ago, but for some reason it is
taking ages for them to be delivered. I walked around the town today and watched with curiosity the remains of former Soviet military bases with rotten and rusted machinery and equipment. One more excursus into the recent history. So there is nothing else left for me to do here - the subject is exhausted. To-morrow morning I will start to prepare all the customs' formalities for departure, replenish fresh water ballast, buy - excuse me! - a bottle of rum, and that's all. The day after to-morrow is going to be the departure day! |
| June 13th 2004 | |
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I've left the hostel -
was feeling myself rather uncosy there
- and moved to the boat There is a British yacht not far from me in the marina. I went to meet them - very nice people. They have a problem with their engine. They gave me charts of Jamaica and Signora Manolita will kindly drive me downtown in order I can get them copied. People in the streets started to recognise me, there was a TV-program about the press-conference - on the central chanel, and some staff about me in the newspapers as well. An amazing country! - the moment I made a secret attempt to make a call on the Satphone, some informer sneaked about it immidiately, and an officer was quick to come and to seal it up again. Well, but besides all that everything is fine, I've got the money, and I am safe and sound. |
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| June 12th 2004 | |
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From Tatiana:
Once again
there was no contact until the evening. At the end of the day there came a
short call:"I can't speak for long. I am ok" And it was only at night that
we could talk. 02:30 (22:30 June 12th) I spent the whole day out in the town. Sad feeling...I haven't got my money yet - the Puerto Ricans are stayng in a different hotel, but they have been in touch with Manolita. Well, I have a place to live, I have a place where I am served dinners - this side of my being here is quite all right and I am grateful for it indeed. By I must leave as soon as possible... As far as staying in Cuba and organizing container for shipping the boat to UK may take Pavel a really long time (ships are running not often and only from Havana, more than 550 miles away where the boat would have to be delivered to), and Pavel is eager to leave the island as soon as he can, we (ORS) have discussed the options of what can be done next. |
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Street Corner, Santiago de
Cuba (1885) Painting by Winslow Homer |
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1.
To go along with the original plan - to row to Miami. Though in
order to get to the start point, to the northwest side of the island
(opposite to where he is), Pavel would still have to organize towing his
boat to Varadero. It is from there, that Cubans are departing (fleeing) to
the States in all kinds of vessels. This point is the closest to Miami.
But according to the weather forecast for the next week, the winds will be
changing twice a day - from southeast, east and from northeast. This does
not give Pavel any chance to get fast through 100 miles due north. Taking
into consideration that the southern approach to Miami is very complicated
because of numerous shipping lanes and countless reefs, it's beyond the
power of a solo rower to maneuver between them with no right for a sleep
or rest all the way long, fighting side wind and current into the bargain.
Such a risk cannot be justified and would be seen as recklessness. And it coincides with what Stein Hoff wrote us in reply to the request of advice re this route: “We are rapidly approaching the worst hurricane season… It is going to be a real challenge as he [Pavel] will be crossing both the Gulf Current and very busy shipping lanes”, said Stein. 2. May be to leave the boat in the marina where it is now and to row on to Miami in autumn, when the season comes. But… And here comes a lot of “buts’, starting with berthing costs and safety of the boat. And we are doubtful that Pavel would fancy coming back to Cuba for the second time. 3. While we were discussing all the options, Pavel came up with his own decision – he is going to row to Jamaica. After all he thinks to see this island is worth an effort. The weather forecast for the next week is not perfect, but tolerable. But Pavel said today “So as long as there is no hurricanes expected, I am going to row to Jamaica, and I hope to leave on Wednesday morning” (local time). |
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| June 11th 2004 | |
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From
Tatiana: This morning we (ORS)
could not reach Pavel, and he did not call us in spite of a text message
with this request that I had sent to him. It was
only late afternoon, that we learnt from the conversation with Consul
General of Ukraine in Cuba, that Pavel's satphone had been taken from him,
but it's possible to contact Pavel through the office of ‘Marina Marlin’,
where 'Marion-Lviv' had been towed to yesterday late at night. |
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"Yesterday
we got to Santiago pretty late and I spent the night on
board my boat. The marina is lovely. I had no money left*,
but my hosts organized for me to have dinners in the local restaurant.
They let me make a call to our Ukrainian Consul General in Havana with
whom I discussed my future plans. But I have no sat phone anymore - they
took it away... Today at 15:30 there will be a press-conference and a
meeting with local Rowers' Association. But everything here is somehow not
a fun." *ORS (read – Kenneth F.Crutchlow) did manage to organized delivery of money for Pavel from Puerto Rica and they have to arrive to Santiago de Cuba to-night, with ”a courier” ! - a director of a Puerto Rican basketball team traveling to Cuba kindly agreed to do it. |
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Santiago de Cuba |
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21:00 (17:00 local time) "So, the press-conference has taken place. A TV-crew was filming me rowing the boat in and then reporters were taking pictures, and that was actually followed by questions-answers. Looks like everybody left satisfied. Then the head of a Sports' Committee drove me to a hotel (a hostel for sportsmen) and hosted me there - very kind of him indeed and I appreciate this gesture. And here at last I could enjoy a gooooood shower..." ( There is a phone in the hostel's reception) |
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| June 10th 2004 | |
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02:20 (22:20 local time) Puerto de Chivirico
The authorities knew about my arrival in advance.
[ Valeriy Zhulyaev from the State's Sports
Committee of Ukraine came in touch with the Ukrainian Embassy in Havana,
and Consul General Vladislav Bogorad did his best to secure for Pavel an
official status while staying in Cuba, and
assistance from the local authorities]. So when
I moored my boat to the pier, they were already waiting for me, took away
my passport and asked me not to leave the boat until they come back. On the pier there is a shabby building and people inside and outside are casting shy glances toward me, hiding their genuine curiosity; and kids with their fingers in their noses are staring at me hiding nothing. It incredibly resembles my African experience, though may be it's just the first impression. But when I saw "Lada's" and "UAZes" driving along the road, it made me feel myself at home.. |
| Chivirico Cuba - Katty McMurray | |
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Couple of
minutes ago I saw off the authorities, that had arrived from Santiago to
visit me - a charming Signora Manolita, and "a group of comrades" - some
official guys from (I guess) the Home Security. First of all they took away my portable GPS - as it appeared, GPS is forbidden for personal use in Cuba. They were thinking of removing of my mounted GPS as well, but I strongly objected - I wouldn't like them to take the boat to pieces. After all they decided to leave it, as long as I was not going to separate it from the boat. So I covered GPS with a good layer of sticky tape. And the second surprise - satphones are either forbidden in Cuba. But I was generously granted the right to leave it with me for a few days. O-oh... Can they prompt me how do I coordinate my future plans in foreign country having no means of communication with outer world? Suddenly there cropped up a feeling that I returned to my young years, into the Soviet Union of 50th's... But in general everybody was quite friendly and it was decided that Signora Manolita would come to Chivirico next morning to discuss my plans for the next few days. So now I can afford myself to drink some rum, and - to bed-to bed-to bed !!! ... Dead beat |
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15:26 (11:26 local time) In the morning, when I was waiting for signora Manolita to arrive, I got into conversation with local fishermen, who offered me to tow my boat to Santiago for 100 verdes (dollars USA). Alas! - all I have for now is 20 dollars, and there appeared to be a problem with transferring money from UK to Cuba: the only country in the world from where its possible to send money to Cuba (with Western Union) is Puerto Rica. So to save my day, dear Ocean Rowing Society in London is trying to find the way out of this deadlock. |
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I went out for a stroll, exchanged my dollars for peso at rate of 1 to 26, and had one more conversation with fishermen, who agreed to tow me in exchange for my fishing tackle. Actually for a spool of 2.5mm fishing rope. Ok, on top of this I presented them with a luminous squid bait - though it's a real work of art and looks beautiful, no Caribbean fish species were anxious to appreciated it. |
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| 18:53 ( 14:53 local time) Signora Manolita has visited me. She said that rowers from the Rowers' Association in Santiago were waiting for me. So we are getting ready: a 4-meter-long funny, plain and simple power-boat is giving me a tow. Hopefully, in 2 hours we'll be in Santiago de Cuba. | |
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22:00
( 18:00 local time)
We are on our way. The engine failed just in front of a hostile cape with
wave breakers - what a surprise.... As for me - I would be able to row
away, and for poor fishermen it could have turned out to be a big problem.
But the guys had tinkered for a while, and launched the engine. So we are
on a move again. |
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Caribbean Sea. From Barbados to Cuba May 14th June 9th
